The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

Hands on your hips!

I just caught up on my Project Runways and was delighted to see last week’s episode where one team chose Military as one of their themes.

So cool!

It really is a big trend right now. I was inspired to do this dress a few weeks ago by many looks I saw while window shopping at the mall.

The pockets are perfect for my glasses!

I like my glasses

I wanted it to be softer and more childlike for my daughter and I feel like I achieved that.

I just had to share a tutorial with you all (of course!) which I think should do well in an adult size as well. I just think if I were to make this for myself, I would add a waistband. That seems to always help with the look on adults, in my opinion anyways.

Look! Pockets!

There are a few “hindsight” things I will share in the tutorial that would make it easier for those who choose to try and create the look.

The Back


What you will need for the dress:

-A Knit Fabric (make sure you have enough so it all can be cut with the stretch horizontal)
-Coordinating Extra Wide Double Fold Bias Tape (you can make your own too; I almost used another knit, but I couldn’t find one that coordinated well enough)
-6 Coordinating Buttons

Creating the Pattern:

Need: Paper, Pencil, Marker, Ruler, Childs T-Shirt, & possibly Tape

1. I started off by taking one of my daughter’s t-shirts. I folded it in half across and then folded it up to about where I wanted the top of the dress to be. I placed it on paper and drew around it with a pencil.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

2. I then went over it with a marker and added where the fold would be.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

3. Then I created another piece the same size, but dipped the neck down for the front of the dress. Just make sure to make the neck hole big enough for the little one’s head to go through, but even if you don’t, you can always re-cut it at the end.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

4. For the bottom, start by making the top of it as wide as the top piece would be.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

5. Then draw lines straight down to how long you want it.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

6. Draw a straight line to the left on the left side (I did 2.5″). Do the same on the right side. Now draw a line from the ends of the top to where you just added on the sides. This creates an a-line. The larger the size, the further out you want to go and vice-versa.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

7. Choose a size for the middle panel and draw that (mine was 4 inches). Then the pockets, and the sides.
*PLEASE NOTE: THESE DO NOT HAVE SEAM ALLOWANCES ON THEM. YOU CAN REDRAW THEM AND ADD IT, OR JUST REMEMBER TO ADD IT WHEN CUTTING IT.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

**IN hindsight, I would have created another pattern piece to make the back piece one whole piece instead of cutting it all up like the front.

8. Create pockets. Just make sure they are the same width as the two panels they will go on (with the extra added at the top for gathering) and shorter.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

Cutting the Fabric:

1. Make sure to cut all of your pieces so that the fabric stretches horizontally. This is very important! Place your top pieces on the fabric fold and cut them out.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

2. Then cut out the bottom pieces and pockets, making sure to add the 1/4″ seam allowance to the sides that will be sewn together. These are all the pieces you should have:

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial
the front

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial
the back
(but again, in hindsight, I think I would have just made the bottom part all 1 piece for the back)

Preparing the Pockets:

1. Take the pockets and baste along the top, then gather it in until it’s the same width as the rest of the panel.

2. Then take your bias tape and open it up. Place the top of the pocket inside of it (right side up) and sew it to the back side of the bias tape only.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

3. Then fold over the front of the bias tape to the front of the pocket piece and sew in place.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

4. Pin the pockets (right side up) onto the panels (also right side up) they will go onto.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

**IN HINDSIGHT, I RECOMMEND DOING #6 FROM Putting it All Together RIGHT NOW INSTEAD.

Sewing the Bottom:

1. Start sewing all of your pieces together from one side to another. I started with the left front side. Pin the triangle piece to the pocket piece, right sides facing. Sew together and finish raw edges seams if you like.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

2. Keep doing this with all the pieces until they are all sewn together.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

3. Repeat for the back if you did yours in pieces too.

Putting it All Together:

1. Take the front top piece and the front bottom piece. Pin together, right sides facing each other.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

2. Sew together and finish raw edges if you like.

3. Repeat for the back top and bottom as well.

4. Pin the front piece to the back piece, right sides facing.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

5. Sew together down the sides, leaving enough room for the armhole. I always like to leave mine a decent size. Sew together at the top shoulders as well. Finish raw seams if you like then turn the dress right side out.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

6. Sew on three strips of bias tape to the middle front top. **Again, in hindsight, I recommend you do this before sewing it all together. IT would be way easier.

Finishing Touches:

1. To finish the raw edges around the neck, arms, and bottom, you could do a few things. You could turn it in and sew it down with a double needle which would give you the look like professional knit shirts in the store usually have. You could serge the edges or v-stitch over them. You could add a fabric band, or do it this way: Cut strips of fabric about 1 inch wide and long enough to go around the neck and arm holes, again making sure the stretch is going the same way as the length of the strip (horizontal).

2. Pin one piece around the neck hole, right sides facing. When it comes to the place where then connect, turn one side over a little.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

Then pin the other side over it and cut off excess.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

2. Sew around, close to the edges.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

3. Turn up and inward. Sew in place and trim to make it look nice and neat on the inside.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

4. Repeat for the arm holes.

5. For the bottom, I just serged it then folded it up towards the inside and sewed it in place.

6. OPTIONAL: I also added a little bit of shirring to the back to help bring it in a bit because it was a little big. But, since it stretches out, my daughter will be able to wear it for a while.

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial

7. Sew on the buttons

The Military Bias Dress Tutorial
We salute all of you who make one!!!!

Saluting

Here’s looking at you!

Family

I had been saving these pictures from April until I finished the As You Like It Pattern, so now I can share! I like to get family pics every few months, so when my parents came to visit this past April I took the opportunity to have them help to that.

I made my dress, which was my Mother’s Day dress as well. I wanted to coordinate with the dress I made for my daughter, but not exactly. I really loved the colors. I just kind of winged it, but I think I would try a pattern next time.

I also made our headbands. So much fun to make!

I love these two so much and am so blessed by God to be married to my husband and a mom to my daughter.

And I love these two a lot as well. Thanks mom and dad for your help!

3 It Is

My daughter went and turned 3 this past week! Most say, wow, time has flown, I can’t believe it. But, I think she should be five years or something by now! lol. She’s fun :)

Blowing out the candles
I chose to do an outer space theme for her. She has really been into astronauts, Wall-E, and space lately. She had other likes as well, but this one seemed liked the most fun.
Let me tell you, she loved her party decorations and all!
Outer Space Hello Kitty Cake
The cake was inspired by this FLickr find (the moon rocks are Astronaut Freeze Dried Icecream!) I repainted a space ship from Hobby Lobby and the Hello Kitty was completely made by me. We didn’t have a computer at that time, so I needed something easy to draw.

We hung paper stars from the ceiling with fishing line

Pink Solar System

and painted a pink solar system.

We had a lot of fun and

Everyone enjoyed the cake
lots of yummy food :)
Happy Birthday to my big girl!

The Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial

The Mod Sailor Dress

It’s here! Finally, right? lol.

So we have a new computer, but haven’t had a chance to switch all the data over yet, so we are almost there with having everything back in order. It turned out to be a nice break and allowed myself and my daughter to get over an annoying cold. The first thing I wanted to share once I was able to was how to make the Mod Sailor Dress I made here.

Front of the Mod Sailor Dress

Back of the Mod Sailor Dress

I’m going to share a tutorial with how I made it, but sharing things I would change and how to go about making a pattern for your child. I changed things some even for this, but I would add to some of the measurements if I made it again.
Big pockets for holding treasures
(Fun big pockets for holding treasures)

What you will need:
-Fabric for the top
-Striped fabric for waistband, skirt, and pocket (I bought a yard)
-6 buttons for the front
-1 button for the back
-Twill tape/ribbon for back button loop
-And of course, all the things you need to sew ;)
1. Creating the pattern and cutting fabric:
Start by taking your child’s chest and upper waist measurement. If they differ, go with the highest number. My daughter was the same, 19″.
Creating pattern pieces
The above picture is of the different pattern pieces you will be creating.
A: The strap. This you will have to determine on your own. You could just make the straps tie if you don’t want to worry about it. My pattern piece for the strap is 4″wide x 6.5″ long.
***Cut 2 for the straps**
B: The top. I first cut a rectangle that equaled half of my daughter’s chest measurement plus 1.5. This equaled 11 inches. If I were to do it again, I would add another inch to it making it 12 inches. It fits, but she won’t be able to wear it for too long.
Then, decide the height you want it to be. Mine was 3.5″ high. Take your square and fold it in half. Then cut arm holes on the sides (I just guessed, but you could use a shirt if you need some guidance).
**Cut 2 pieces for lining and 2 pieces to be the front and back** (4 pieces all together. I just used the same fabric for all).
C: The waistband. Again, another rectangle. This will be the same length as the top. Mine is 11″ by 2.5″.
**Cut 2 for waistband, making sure the stripes go horizontally**

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
D: The bottom. Create another rectangle that is 1/2 of the width of the top and waistband (Ex: 11/2=5.5″). PLEASE NOTE: THE MEASUREMENT BELOW AT THE TOP IS WRONG. IT SHOULD SAY 5.5″. :) The height will be up to you. Mine is 13.5″.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Once you have your rectangle, mark over 2.5″ (Again, if I was to redo this, I might add another .5″ to 1″, but she still has plenty of room to run, sit, etc). Then draw a line from the top right corner of the rectangle to the mark at the bottom. This will create an A-line look.
Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
When cutting the fabric, make sure to place this pattern piece on the fabric fold.
**Cut 3 out with stripes going vertically**
2. Creating the straps:
Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Fold strap piece in half short ways, wrong sides facing.
Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Open and turn in one side to middle crease, wrong sides facing, and iron.
Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Turn other side in as well and iron. Then fold in half on original crease. Sew down both sides of strap. Repeat for second strap.
3. Creating the top:

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Place top front down, right side up.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Place straps on top (I did mine about 1/5″ in). Then place lining on top, wrong side facing up. Pin in place. Sew around arm holes and top, leaving the sides and bottom open.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Clip curved seams.
Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
(close up of clipped curved seams)

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Turn right side out and iron. Top stitch if desired.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Place back piece right side up. Then place straps on. The straps/front piece will be wrong sides up.
Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Place back lining on top next, wrong side up, and pin in place. Again, sew around arm holes and top leaving the sides and bottom open. Clip curved seams.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Then you are going to sew a three sided rectangle down the middle of the back. I don’t suggest making it too wide and make sure you don’t go too far down that it would be sewn over later. This will help the dress fit over your child.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Cut right down the middle of the 3 sided rectangle and make a little slit towards each bottom corner. Be careful not to cut through the stitching.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Turn right side out and iron.
4. Putting it all together:

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Place waistband pieces onto the top front and the top back, right sides facing. Sew together at the bottom and finish raw edges with a zigzag stitch.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Open up and iron seams.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Take one bottom piece and fold in half. Cut off at the top sides to create the pocket. There’s no math here, I just guess each time I do it.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Open up and place right side down. Fold edge up and over where you just cut and iron.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Fold over one more time and sew. Repeat for other pocket side.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Go ahead and add the six front buttons now. I suggest using embroidery thread if doing it by hand for a stronger hold.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Pin the pocket piece, right side up, onto a bottom piece, right side up.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Pin the front top to the pocket bottom piece, right sides facing. Sew together and finish raw edges with zigzag stitch.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Take last bottom piece and pin to back top, right sides facing. Sew together and finish raw edges with zigzag stitch.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Place the dress together, right sides facing, and pin. Sew down the sides of the dress and finish raw edges with zigzag stitch. The pocket will be open on the bottom, but the bottom will be hemmed up closing it.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Turn right side out. Fold bottom up into the dress 1/4″ and iron. Fold up again 1/4″, iron, and pin in place. Sew around bottom to create hem.

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial
Lastly, sew on a button and closer on the back top. For the closure, I folded a piece of twill tape in half and sewed it like that. Then, folded it in half and sewed the ends on the inside top left.
**Quick note: It will go on easiest if they step into it! At least, that is how ours are :)

Pictures for Mod Sailor Dress Tutorial

She says she's sleeping

Listening to the waves

Dress Up Monday: A Piece of Cake

I’ve got another LBB pattern dress, but this one is a bit different.

Let the baking begin

Why? It’s my first thing I have ever serged!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That’s right!!!!!!! I finally was able to sit down, focus, read the manual a bazillion times, and use my serger. I’ll be honest. It scared me. But I conquered it. I am a Conqueror!!!! I still have to practice the tension a lot, but I know practice makes perfect.

My daughter wore this dress for a baking lesson with one of her aunts.

Her first time using a mixer

They mixed everything up and then her aunt had another cake already cooked (just like they do on cooking shows) so they wouldn’t have to wait for it to cook.

Frosting Time!

The little one got to help decorate and enjoyed a yummy cake!

An Overhead View

Fish Cake
(Oreos for the scales; fruit roll ups for the tail and fins)

And I must say. After my trip, I will have to go on a sugar detox!

Dress Up Monday: Pandas and A Deal

Panda Dress!!!!!

My mom knows I love to make t-shirt dresses for my daughter, so she sent these cute ones with pandas on them for that purpose.

My daughter just adores pandas. We are even taking her to a zoo this summer that has real pandas! She’s super excited about that.

$3 Shoes from Walmart

$3 Shoes from Walmart

Now, about this good deal. We were at Walmart and I saw these adorable wanna-be-Keds. They were only $3 each pair! They had a few more colors too (pink, navy, black).

I got the white and green. They had a ton of them too. I’m thinking about getting more white ones do decorate up. Hmmmmm…….we’ll see ;) We do love us some cute shoes around here!

Hold On

Dresses made using the LBB Sienna Dress Pattern.

Back

Dress Up Monday: My Main Squeeze

It’s the start of a new week and it’s a hot one here today! This little top was meant to be a dress, but I didn’t have quite enough fabric for that. I really wanted to make my daughter something with this fabric, so I went forth anyways.

I made it quickly one night while she was on a daddy date, so I wasn’t quite sure how the fit would be. But, I’m pleased with the outcome.

My daughter likes it too!

It was a really simple design. My favorite thing is how the top is held together with buttons and ribbon loops. I feel it adds a unique quality to it.

Now, what to make for next week…..

Fabric: I bought it at JoAnn’s, but I think it’s in the Alexander Henry line.
Pattern: One I made myself.

The Earring Dilemma

Here is a little story about a girl who asked to get her ears pierced. Her mommy decided it would be okay, so the little girls parents took her to get them pierced. The little girl was perfect about it and hardly cried at all, but was shocked. She received a yummy lollipop for being so good. Two days later one of the little girls earring fell out. Her mommy and daddy couldn’t get it back in. The next morning they took the little girl back to the earring shop and they couldn’t get it back in either. The store lady said to wait a week and let it heal and come back to get it redone.

Her newly pierced ears

“This is terrible!” thought the mother, knowing that her daughter was now quite aware of how they pierce ears and was not as cooperative as before. The fateful came day when it was time to venture back out to the earring store. The little girl was not happy about this. She didn’t want it to hurt. The store lady and the mom bribed the little girl and eventually had to lay her down to get it redone. But, lo and behold, after it was done, the little girl didn’t cry about it! She didn’t even act like it hurt.

Sharing with Panda

She was allowed to pick out some things as part of the bargain of going through this. She went with the gummmy bear necklace and a box of Hello Kitty jellybeans. They made her quite happy. She even shared her necklace with panda and asked to take a picture of him with mommy’s camera. She did a good job. Maybe a future photographer.

Her Reward

Dress Up Monday: Take One

Hope everyone had a fantabulous weekend! I got in my new furniture I talked about earlier from the store that was closing. It’s so wonderful. SOO spacious. I’ll show it off the day I get everything all put in it’s place and such. Onto another goal for the summer: Make one dress a week for my daughter. This is week one. Couldn’t get her to pose for me much, but she’s still a cutie!

Distractions

I love the dress on her. I drafted the pattern myself and is actually a variation for a pattern I almost have all finished to send to pattern testers. The headband is from Forever 21 (only like 2 something dollars! LOVE IT!). We went there one day last week and she picked it out and danced the entire time we were in the store. If you have been in there, you know they can blast some music. She provided some good entertainment for the employees.

Flying Seeds

The headband went perfectly with the dress. I’m trying to come up with something for next week…… Off to dream and create now…….