Football Headband DIY (Free Pattern)

September 20, 2016 by Jessica 4 Comments

It’s that time of the year for football and I decided to whip up a football headband and see how it turned out. Fortunately it came out cute! It’s created using my free double sided headband pattern (which is in kid and adult size) with the simple addition of some hand embroidery. It also doesn’t take long to make at all. These would be fun to wear to football games or on game days at home. I made mine simple, but you could add a team fabric or colors for the back part that covers the elastic.

To make a football headband you will need:

Free Double Sided Headband Pattern PDF printed out (see here for download)
1/4 yard of brown fabric (or fabrics of your choice)
Scissors
Elastic (Adult size: 5.5 to 6 inches of 1/2″ or 3/4″ elastic [this can be adjusted if needed], Kid size: 5.5 to 6 inches of 1/2″ or 3/4″ elastic)
Iron
White Embroidery Thread
Embroidery Needle
Safety Pin
Sewing machine and accessories

Start by cutting out all of your fabric pieces. You will have two of each part.

Prepare your needle and thread to sew on the football lines. I like mine thicker, so I loop it and knot the ends together.

Sew one line straight across. I wanted my “football” to be more on one side, so I made this line 1.75″ from the bottom. If you have enough thread, go to the next step. If not, knot it and trim the excess and rethread your needle.

Now sew a line in the middle. I made mine 2″ long, but you can make it longer or shorter depending on preference.

Next, sew the lines that go across that one (I made 6) and then sew on one more straight line across. I made that one the same distance between as the other one. Knot the thread and cut off the excess.

Now place the two top pieces right sides facing and sew down the sides. Do the same for the elastic cover pieces. Turn both of these right side out.

Iron both.

Attach the safety pin to the elastic and pull through the cover. Once the non-safety pin side is right at the fabric edge, hold it in place and sew. Then remove the safety pin and sew that end as well. Just make sure the elastic is even with the fabric edges on that end as well.

Turn the ends of the headband in just enough so no raw edges show. Iron.

Place one end of the covered elastic in an opening and sew in place. I just put it in far enough to cover the seam from the step two pictures above. Then push the fabric in on the other end of the elastic and sew that side in the last opening. Pull elastic to even out the fabric cover and you are done!

Feel free to share your happy together creations on the facebook page or on social media using #happytogetherbyjess and tagging me. Happy sewing! -jess

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Free Girls Dress Pattern: The August Dress Pattern Sizes 2-9

September 1, 2016 by Jessica 30 Comments

Quite a few years ago, I sewed up a cute little dress for miss E to wear at her first birthday (see here). It has been in my head ever since then to create an actual pattern for it so I could sew more for my girls and share with you all. I had fun creating The August Dress pattern, named after miss E’s birth month, and I find it to be simple and cute. I really like how there is no need for button holes, zippers, or other closures since the hand sewn buttons hold the front in place but are far over enough that there is plenty of room to get it on in the neck area.

I, of course, experimented with all the sizes. I did not do a ton of testing as this is a freebie pattern, so you may find you want to tweek some things. Miss J is wearing the size 8/9 in the above photo. I didn’t have enough of the horse fabric to make a dress, so hers is shorter for a shirt option.

Miss E is wearing the 5/6 in her dress here. The bottom is the full length and she has room to grow in it. Below, my sweet friend got her cute grand baby to try out the 2/3. This was my first draft and it was a little wide at the the shoulders and a little too far down, so I adjusted. I did make another one with the adjustments, but I haven’t heard on the fit yet. Hopefully it’s all good

Size Chart:

Size 2/3: chest measurement 20″-21″
Size 4/5: chest measurement 22″-23″
Size 6/7: chest measurement 24″-25″
Size 8/9: chest measurement 26″-27.5″

Supply list:

The August Dress Pattern PDF printed out (*tip: Do not print when opened in “preview.” Open in a program like Adobe Acrobat Reader for the most accurate printing.)
1/2 yard for top main fabric (or less for each piece if you use different fabrics)
1/2 yard for lining
For bottom: 1/2 yd for size 2/3, 1 yd for size 4/5, 1.5 yds. for size 6/7, and 2 yds. for size 8/9 (* of course you can make it shorter and make this a top. That would use less fabric if you choose to do this.)
Scissors
Pins
Iron
2 Safety Pins (optional)
Buttons of Choice
Sewing Machine and notions/thread needed
Needle and Thread for hand sewing
Measuring Tape

*All seams are 1/4″ unless otherwise noted.

*Always back stitch at beginning and end of sewing unless otherwise stated.

Once you have printed out the pattern, lay it down in order to see where to connect the pieces. It goes in order starting at page one at top left and going across and finishes with page 9 at the bottom right. Then cut out and tape together.

Cut out the following using the pattern and measuring tape:

Lining: Cut 1 back, 1 front left, and 1 front right
Outer Top: Cut 1 back, 1 front left, and 1 front right
Bottom Skirt: Cut 2 of the appropriate size- 14.5″ x 22″ for size 2/3; 17″ x 24″ for size 4/5; 19″ x 26″ for size 6/7; 21″ x 30″ for size 8/9

Start by sewing the top outer pieces first. Place the back piece down right side facing up. Take the front left piece and match up on the shoulders, right sides facing. Sew together at shoulder.

Take the outer front right piece and line up on the other side, right sides facing. Sew together at the shoulder. Iron open the seams.

Next, sew the lining together. This will be similar to the outer, but the sides are sewn on opposite. Place the back lining piece down, right side facing up. Then take the lining right side and match up at the shoulder, right sides facing. Sew together.

Take the lining left side and match up the shoulder to the back piece, right sides facing. Sew together. Open the seams and iron flat.

The the outer top down, right side facing up.

Place the lining on top, wrong side facing up. Match the shoulder seams and edges together. Pin in place. Sew together on each arm hole and around the front sides and neck.

Once sewn, you will want to make notches on the curved seams so it lays flat once turned right side out. I simply use my pinking shears (scissors with zig zag cutting sides) and trim all the edges close to the seam. This eases the fabric on all the curves.

Another little thing to do is clip the edges on the top sides of the front pieces. It takes away some of the bulk from this area for when turned right side out.

Turn right side out and iron flat. *Tip: I use the eraser end of a pencil to push all the seams out for a cleaner finish.

Now it’s time to sew the sides together. Open the side seams of the left back side and left front side. Match up at the seams, right sides together, and pin in place. Sew together.

Again, it helps to cut a little notch at that middle seam to reduce the fabric bulk at that point.

Turn right side out and iron. Repeat these steps for the right sides as well.

This is also your last chance to sew a tag in place so the back stitching is hidden. You can do this earlier of course, but I usually forget until this step haha

Place the top down and fold over the front pieces so the side seams are on the sides and the longer side goes over the shorter side. Use a safety pin to keep the front pieces together.

Sew the bottom skirt next. Place the two bottom pieces right sides together. Sew together down the shorter sides. To have a cleaner edge, you can go over it with a zig zag stitch or use a serger.

Iron the side seams and then iron the bottom up about 1/4″.

Fold up the bottom about another 1/4″ again and iron. Sew around the edge.

Now sew a wide stitch around the top of the skirt leaving a long tail at the beginning and end. This means no back stitching at this part. (My machine goes up to a 5 so I use that size stitch). I usually do a line from one seam to another then start another one on the other side. This helps make it easier to ruffle. Pull on the back threads to ruffle each side until it is the same width as the top piece.

Make sure the bottom is wrong side out and the top is right side out. Place the skirt over the top and match up skirt side seams to the top side seams.

Spread out the gathers so they are evened out around and pin in place. Then sew together.

Finish off the raw edge with a zig zag stitch or a serger. Turn right side out and prepare to sew buttons in place.

For the buttons, be creative! Use different colors, different sizes, same colors, same sizes…. have fun Depending on the size will depend on how many you want to add. You can sew them on as you like, but I want to share real quick how I sew them on. I don’t want them falling off, especially when it’s for a younger child, so I really go overboard with this part. I start by threading the needle and knotting the two ends together.

I pull the needle through the two front pieces at where I want the first button.

Then I pull it back through and make a knot again on the end knot that is on the top.

Then I sew the button on by going through the holes and the front fabrics a bunch of times to make sure it’s strong. Then I pull the thread through from the bottom and make a knot around the button (like above) a ton of times for extra strength.

Next, I cut the thread and make a few knots this way with the two ends. Then I trim the extra thread off.

I sew the rest on the same way.

The buttons keep the top together but allows for room to have it fit over the child’s head when placing it on. It’s a nice way to create a dress or top with no button holes, zippers, or other sort of closures. Nice, huh?

Free Girls Dress Pattern: The August Dress Pattern Sizes 2-9 | happy together

She is wearing the 4/5 here.

I love this dress because you can create so many different looks. You can use the same colors or use a variety of fabrics. Use fancy buttons or more whimsical ones. I think it would be even lovely with piping around the top edges too. Make it your own and have fun. I hope you enjoy The August Dress Pattern. Please share your creations on the happy together by jess facebook page or on other social media by tagging me and #happytogetherbyjess Happy sewing! -jess

Fabric Label DIY

July 26, 2016 by Jessica 27 Comments

I have been sewing up some kids clothing lately and needed some more labels to sew in them. I decided it was time for me to go ahead and share this process with you as I have had such great success with it over the years. There are a few methods I have tried, but this is my favorite fabric label diy hands down and they have lasted for everything I have made so far (through multiple washings!).

What you need:

Tightly woven light colored fabric (ex: quilting cotton; and I do nothing to fabric to prep it except iron it)
Scissors
Piece of paper that fits your printer
Printer (I use an HP Deskjet F4280 and use the HP ink for it; I cannot speak for other printers/inks, but if you can please share your results in the comments)
Freezer paper (found in the section with aluminum foil/saran wrap/etc)
Iron
Design to print (I made a simple page of labels in Word, but you can create yours however you like)

Start by ironing your fabric to get any wrinkles out. Then take the piece of paper and use that to cut out the same size from the freezer paper.

Place the freezer paper on top of the fabric, shiny side down. Make sure to turn iron to “no steam” and iron the freezer paper to the fabric.

Cut around the freezer paper and iron edges one more time to make sure the fabric and freezer paper is connected well.

Place it in your printer with the fabric side facing down (or other way if your printer prints differently). I usually put a regular piece of paper on top as I’m putting it in place just to make sure it goes in where it needs to. Then I take the paper out so only the fabric/freezer paper combo is there. When you go to print labels, make sure to choose the best ink option so it takes its time to print. Now, I have had the printer not catch the fabric properly and it got jammed, but it doesn’t happen often. Just watch and if it seems like it’s starting to not catch properly hit the cancel button on your printer and pull it out. I can’t speak for all printers, but I rarely have problems with this method. Just give it a try and see if it might work for you.

Tip: Be mindful of the colors you are choosing to print with. I have only used darker colors as I feel confident they will show up well.

Once printed, you can cut your labels out. But if it’s your first time trying this, I suggest putting the fabric in the wash after the first print so you can see how the ink holds up. Mine always has held up wonderfully well so I hope yours does too! Besides that, I leave them attached to the freezer paper until it comes time to use them as it keeps them nice and crisp and it’s easy to store them. Below is an example of them sewn in (and you can get the free skirted sweatshirt pattern here as well). -jess

Easy Magnolia Wreath DIY

May 10, 2016 by Jessica Leave a Comment

I love having a wreath on our front door. It adds so much! Especially for us since our front yard has no landscaping yet I had bought a gorgeous dried floral wreath and sadly it did not do well with the few hours of sun it gets before night time. I thought maybe it might make it since it’s not in direct sun for too long but I was wrong. I learned my lesson. I’m sticking with faux wreaths for now since they will last quite a bit longer before they fade away. To rectify the situation, I went to the store and decided to make a magnolia wreath diy.

To make your own you will need:

Magnolia leave stems (I bought five at Michaels and ended up using only four; I happened to get them on sale for 50% off!)
Grapevine wreath (I reused one that I had torn everything off of already, but you can find these for less at thrift stores or at local craft stores)
Wire cutters
Hot glue gun and glue

Start by breaking down the stems into smaller bunches.

To create a more natural look, you can turn some of the leaves around so you can see the back as well. I have seen faux magnolia stems be all green, so you might not need or want to do this. I liked the look and felt it added more visual interest to the wreath.

Start by placing one stem in the grapevine wreath. Glue the bottom in place and at other spots where the stem is lying flat on the wreath so it will stay in place.

Continue adding more stems on top of the previous ones. Glue one in place at a time. I also found I had to bend the stems at times to make them more curved to fit the wreath’s direction.

Your last stem will be tucked underneath the very first one. From the front, flat on the ground, I liked how the wreath looked, but once I held it up there were some spaces I wanted to fill in.

If you feel the same way, take some individual leaves and glue them in the bare spots.

I also decided to glue down more leaves because we get a ton of very strong winds out here and I didn’t want the leaves blowing off. It made for a flatter wreath, but I wanted that security.

It now lives on my front door and I’m hoping it will make it through the summer. This is truly a simple and easy project and would be fun to make together on a craft night with friends. -jess

Wood Vase Holder DIY

April 27, 2016 by Jessica Leave a Comment

I love sewing, crocheting, and all, but you all know how I like to create with all kinds of things so today I’m sharing this wood vase holder diy. A few weeks ago I saw something kind of like this but it was made from metal. I really liked how it looked but also figured I could make something with that same concept but for a lot less money. I was right! I made this out of wood and since I had almost all the supplies already it didn’t cost anywhere near the amount of the metal one. I liked how simple this was to make using minimal tools.

You can see two different types of vases I had on hand that fit in it. It’s a generous size but you could always change the sizes of the wood pieces to suit a specific vase you want whether it be smaller, larger, wider, or not so wide. Here is your supply list to create your own wood vase holder diy:

2 pieces of 3/4 x 36 poplar square for the legs and top joining pieces
Wood for the base (I used a 1×8 scrap piece I had. just make sure it is at least 3/4″ thick and 5.5″ wide)
Four 3/4″ x 1/2″ corner braces with screws
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Clamps
Pre-stain wood conditioner
Paint brush
Wood stain
Polycrylic finish
Lint free cloth
Ruler
Saw (I used a chop saw but also used a hand saw to cut off the ends of two smaller pieces I cut too long)
Drill and bit that the screws you use will need

First make your wood cuts. From the two pieces of poplar cut the following lengths: four that are 12″ long, two that are 5.5″ long, and two that are 4″ long. From your wood for your base cut a 5.5″ x 5.5″ piece. Sand all of the pieces, especially focusing on any rough spots.

Next, grab your corner braces and prepare to put them on.

Take your 12″ pieces of poplar and screw on each brace so that the top is 4″ from the bottom. Repeat for all four pieces.

Now take a leg with the brace and place on the corner of the base. Screw in place. Repeat for all four sides making sure that the legs are in the correct place on each end.

It was a little difficult to get the last leg on, so if you leave the leg screws a little loose on the base you can turn them to make more room for your drill if necessary. Then go back and tighten them once they are all in place. You might also find it best not to screw the screws in too tightly as it can make the legs warp a little bit at the top.

Now take the smaller pieces and place them on the appropriate sides. I put a little bit of wood glue on the ends of the piece and then clamped them in place one at a time. I would put one in place and go about my day and the next time I got in the car I would switch and do another piece. The wood glue holds these in place super good so no need for screws or nails on these unless you want to do that.

Some people skip doing this but I like to use a pre-stain wood conditioner. It helps the wood soak up the stain more evenly. I applied it with a paint brush and then wiped off the extra with an old t-shirt. (Make sure to wash your brush after.)

After the conditioner has set for the amount allotted on the can, apply your stain of choice. I used this Early American color stain. I applied one coat using a paint brush, let it sit for fifteen minutes, and then wiped off any excess. (Make sure to wash your brush after.)

Once the stain is completely dry you can apply a polycrylic finish. I applied one coat with a paint brush. (Make sure to wash your brush after.) This will protect the wood from any water that might spill onto it.

Let it dry and then it’s ready to hold a vase full of flowers. A great mother’s day gift idea since that is very soon ;). Make sure to share your happy together projects on social media using #happytogetherbyjess and tag me too Have fun creating! -jess

Happy Together

A DIY craft blog

Football Headband DIY (Free Pattern)

Free Girls Dress Pattern: The August Dress Pattern Sizes 2-9

Fabric Label DIY

Easy Magnolia Wreath DIY

Wood Vase Holder DIY